How a boy from Northern Ireland transformed Loewe, dismantled the boundaries between fashion and culture, and arrived at Dior with more creative power than any designer since Christian Dior himself By Bergotte Fashion periodically decides that one designer matters more than everybody else. The reasons are never entirely aesthetic. A designer becomes important because heContinue reading “Jonathan Anderson: The Intelligent Disruptor”
Category Archives: Fashion
Why Gen Z Looks So Badly Dressed to Gen X
Taste, Technology and What Happened to the Individual Eye I think About This A Lot… by Birgitte Hahn-Etc There comes a point in middle age when one catches oneself looking at a group of twenty-somethings and thinking something one had promised never to think: Why are they all dressed like that? This is treacherous territory.Continue reading “Why Gen Z Looks So Badly Dressed to Gen X”
In Memoriam – Bob Mackie
The Sultan of Sequins Bob Mackie, who died on 14 September 2026 at the age of eighty-seven, dressed the century’s most luminous performers in the most theatrical clothes ever made for a body. He understood, better than almost anyone in the history of costume, that a great dress was not decoration but transformation — thatContinue reading “In Memoriam – Bob Mackie”
John Galliano: The Theatre And The Ruin
The cancelled Metropolitan Museum retrospective has reopened one of fashion’s most difficult questions: what should history do with an artist whose creative achievement is inseparable from an act of profound disgrace? By Bergotte The Metropolitan Museum of Art did not merely cancel an exhibition when it abandoned John Galliano: Horizons, the major retrospective that hadContinue reading “John Galliano: The Theatre And The Ruin”
See Something – Irving Penn 2026
The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. See Something Irving Penn is everywhere in 2026. Three cities, three exhibitions, and the case for making a trip specifically to see him Irving Penn directed his models with two words. Not an expression — he wasContinue reading “See Something – Irving Penn 2026”
September Mood Board
Here are the colours (plus colour combinations) and images we love right now. Including Christy Turlington’s new campaign for Giorgio Armani, which is just splendid.
Rei Kawakubo – Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo did not arrive in Paris in 1981 to show clothes. She arrived to make an argument — about the body, about beauty, about what a woman was and was not obliged to be. The argument has not stopped since.
Issey Miyake
Encounters · No. 6 A Piece of Cloth Issey Miyake survived the atomic bomb at seven years old and spent the rest of his life making clothes that felt like freedom. These two facts are not unrelated. By Bergotte On the morning of August 6, 1945, Issey Miyake was seven years old and standing closeContinue reading “Issey Miyake”
Diana Vreeland
Essay · Fashion & Culture The Empress of the Imaginary Diana Vreeland did not edit magazines. She edited reality — selecting from the available world only those elements that met her standard of vividness, discarding the rest without apology, and presenting the result with a conviction so absolute that generations of readers, photographers, and designersContinue reading “Diana Vreeland”
Cool Britannia: Art, Attitude, and the London of the 1990s
It was the summer of 1997 and Downing Street had turned into a nightclub. Tony Blair, barely weeks into his premiership, was playing host not to diplomats but to designers, artists, models, and rock stars. In the garden, Kate Moss smoked cigarettes with Noel Gallagher of Oasis. Tracey Emin and Damien Hirst, the enfant terriblesContinue reading “Cool Britannia: Art, Attitude, and the London of the 1990s”
