Category: Dining
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New Orleans: The City That Invented Itself
New Orleans in October, when the heat finally breaks and the most singular city in America remembers what it is Sometime in October — the exact date varies by year, but the Crescent City knows it when it arrives — the first cool front comes off the Gulf and the temperature drops ten degrees overnight…
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Istanbul: The City That Contains Everything
Istanbul in the autumn and the case for one of the world’s great cities at its most completely itself There is a moment, arriving in Istanbul for the first time, when the scale of the city’s ambition becomes briefly visible all at once. It happens most reliably from the Bosphorus — from a ferry crossing…
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Copenhagen Now – October to December 2026
Art, design, fashion, literature, film, music, food and hospitality as the city moves from autumn into winter. Copenhagen changes character when the evenings draw in. The harbour ceases to be the centre of everybody’s social life, dinner moves indoors, and the city’s museums, cinemas and theatres begin to feel less like occasional destinations than places…
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Chiang Mai: A Sky Full of Wishes
Chiang Mai in November, the ancient city of the Lanna kingdom, and the night the sky catches fire Last week this column made the case for Bangkok — overwhelming, oceanic, inexhaustible. This week it makes the case for its opposite. Chiang Mai is everything Bangkok is not: human-scaled, mountain-ringed, quieter by several orders of magnitude,…
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The City That Never Resolves
The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Bangkok in November, and why the most complex city in Southeast Asia deserves more than a night before the ferry Bangkok defeats the traveller who arrives with a plan. It is too…
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The City People Keep Missing
The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Athens in September, and the case for treating it as a destination rather than a gateway The standard relationship between the serious traveller and Athens is one of transit. You fly in,…
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The Place That Refuses to Try
The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Comporta, Portugal, and the particular luxury of somewhere that has decided not to become anything other than itself There is a type of place that becomes fashionable precisely because it has not…
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Copenhagen Now – September 2026
Music, Design, Fashion, Literature, Film, Hotels, Food, Art & the City The City Between Summer and Seriousness There is a particular moment in Copenhagen when summer has not quite disappeared, but the cultural year has unmistakably begun. The evenings can still be spent outside, Tivoli is still illuminated, bicycles continue to crowd the bridges and…
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The Season Opens
The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Vienna in September, and what happens when a city built for culture remembers what it is for Vienna in July and August belongs, with varying degrees of reluctance, to the tourists. They…
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The Light Does Something Different Here
The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Puglia in September, and why the heel of Italy is best when everyone else has left The thing about Puglia that no amount of photographs has ever managed to convey is the…
