The Sweetest Month

The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Why serious travellers go to Sicily in September August in Sicily is a fact of nature rather than a choice. The island sits in the middle of the Mediterranean like a stoneContinue reading “The Sweetest Month”

The City That Comes Back to Itself

The Passenger is a weekly dispatch on travel — places, hotels, restaurants, the strange logistics of being elsewhere. It is written by Bergotte. Paris, and why September is the only month that matters There is a particular quality of light in Paris in late August that travel writing has never quite managed to capture, perhapsContinue reading “The City That Comes Back to Itself”

Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of Hungary’s Wine Villages

Hungary’s wine regions are among Europe’s best-kept secrets. Beyond Budapest, the hills of Tokaj and Eger are dotted with vineyards, baroque towns, and family-run cellars. Instead of polished resorts, travellers here are welcomed into small pensions, rustic guesthouses, and vineyard inns where tasting a glass of local Furmint or Egri Bikavér feels like slipping intoContinue reading “Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of Hungary’s Wine Villages”

Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of the Austrian Alps

The Austrian Alps may be known for glamorous ski resorts like Kitzbühel or Lech, but the heart of Alpine hospitality lies in its Gasthäuser, chalets, and small family inns. Here, rustic timber architecture, balconies overflowing with geraniums, and hearty mountain cooking come together in stays that are warm, authentic — and affordable. Affordable style inContinue reading “Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of the Austrian Alps”

Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of Essaouira & the Atlas Foothills

Morocco’s Atlantic coast and mountain landscapes offer a different kind of escape: atmospheric, artisanal, and surprisingly affordable. While Marrakech draws luxury seekers, the port town of Essaouira and the villages of the Atlas foothills remain places where riads, kasbahs, and guesthouses welcome travellers with warmth and character. Here, affordable style is woven into hand-carved woodenContinue reading “Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of Essaouira & the Atlas Foothills”

Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of Sicily

Sicily is an island of layers: Greek temples, Norman cathedrals, Baroque palaces, and volcanic landscapes. While Palermo’s grandeur and Taormina’s glamour attract international crowds, the island’s real charm often lies in its agriturismi and family-run guesthouses. Rooted in food, history, and landscape, these stays prove that Sicilian hospitality doesn’t need to be expensive to feelContinue reading “Affordable Style: Inns and Guesthouses of Sicily”

Villa San Michele

Above Florence Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel, has just reopened above Fiesole after eighteen months of renovation — and the view from the terrace is, as it has always been, the finest available in Tuscany There is a concept the Romans called otium — a form of leisure quite distinct from idleness, devoted toContinue reading “Villa San Michele”

The Voice That Didn’t Live to Hear the Echo

Venice · Art · 2026 The 61st Venice Art Biennale opens on May 9th under the title In Minor Keys. Its curator, Koyo Kouoh, died a year ago. The show goes forward entirely as she conceived it — and it may be the most important Biennale in a generation. By Bergotte · Preview, May 2026Continue reading “The Voice That Didn’t Live to Hear the Echo”

In Minor Keys

The Venice Biennale opens on the 9th of May. How to go, how long to stay, and why the city is as much the point as the art The Venice Biennale is the largest and oldest contemporary art exhibition in the world — 131 years old, held every two years in the city least suitedContinue reading “In Minor Keys”

Mallorca: The Mediterranean’s Timeless Island

The largest of Spain’s Balearic Islands, Mallorca is a place of shimmering paradoxes. Long dismissed as a package-tour destination of beaches and sangria, it has quietly reasserted itself as one of the Mediterranean’s most sophisticated escapes: a landscape of Gothic cathedrals and Moorish gardens, of hidden coves and mountain villages, of Michelin-starred kitchens and rusticContinue reading “Mallorca: The Mediterranean’s Timeless Island”